Fitting CAK twin fresh water tanks

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Yardie

I Decided to buy a set of these as part of my camper conversion and have just finished fitting them. It wasn't as difficult as i had imagined even though I fitted them with just the front of the van on ramps, in the dark after work - took 3 evenings.

Once I had removed the under trays (easy screws and clips) I found that for the front tank I had to remove the front RH bolt that secures the drivers seat to the floor and cut about 1cm off the end so that it doesn't stick too far through the floor.

The two hooks on the outside edge of the front tank just fit into two large holes that are plugged with rubber covers. For the inside edge you have to enlarge a hole that goes into the front side of the chassis, and drill it through to the other side. I then used a rasp to elongate the holes slightly to get the hooks into them.

To make room for the rear tank I had to remove the front RH side load anchor point bolt, which was a bit annoying as I had already ply lined and carpeted over the top of it. Then I just had to drill a hole for the rear outside hook to fit into, and the other three hooks fit into holes that are already there.

These tanks come with two breather holes on the top of each which are about 3mm in diameter. CAK say to just leave them open like that but I didn't fancy having crappy water get in, or the underside of the van getting soaked should I overfill the tank. So to be on the safe side I used some thin tubing from an old greenhouse irrigation system pushed into the holes, to make sure crap couldn't get in and water was drained away from the floor.

Next I wrapped both of them in a few layers of foil backed thin foam that B&Q sell to provide some insulation and bolted them up into the floor of the van, having waxoiled the brackets and any cutting that I had done.

The font tank just has a connection to the rear one via a 1" hose, then at the back of the rear tank is a 12mm pump hose connection, 40mm filler hose connection and a 25mm? drain one. I also had them fit (at no extra charge) 4 water level sensor points and one of their heating elements at the back of the rear tank to try and keep it unfrozen!

All the hoses etc were easy to connect up with a bit of sealant and jubilee clips, then a hole went through the floor to route all the pipes and wires.

Cutting the under trays was straight forward, but note that the picture in their instructions shows the rear tray from a SWB van, you cut the same amount off on the LWB tray but you'll notice it leaves much more of it intact.

The front tank fits completely under the front tray, you only have to cut the front tray where it goes over the rear tank as it sticks out too far. I was initially a bit worried about the rear tank sticking out too much on my lowered van, but it is still higher than the exhaust silencer and fuel tank so it should be fine.

All I have left to do now is to find a way to cover the rear tank; although it should be fine as it is, I'm going to try and get some flexible aluminium sheet, like that used on the exhaust heat shields, that I can bend and fit over the tank to provide more protection.

Hope this helps some people try to make the decisions that I just have in buying these; I had intended to take some of my own photos but unfortunately that ended up being the last thing on my mind whilst spending time cramped under the van after dark!

Contrary to another well viewed thread on this forum I found the ladies I spoke to at CAK 3 or 4 times very helpful and certainly wouldn't hesitate to deal with them again.

55 reg 174 LWB raven blue camper. Celtic remap, pipercross filter, MIJ de-cat and exhaust, Forge intercooler, Allard EGR powerpipe and oil catch tank

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